Passion Play

I had no idea what to expect when Lois of We Are Sole Sisters invited me to a Passion Play retreat a year ago, around November 2012. I had just finished an intensive week long Antigravity Yoga training course, so I didn't feel like doing anything but chill on the beach, and hopefully wake up on time to teach the yoga class I went there for.


I lay on my hammock, while everyone gathered around a table at The Circle Hostel. The talk by Lois & Raf started to sound interesting so at one point, I got curious and tried one exercise, the brain map.



I have always considered myself a jack of all trades. Growing up, I wanted to be an astonaut, then a nun, a CEO, a lawyer, a chef, a photographer, a make-up artist. Burnt out, I quit my glamorous Marketing & PR Director position in 2008 not knowing what my next step was. I was confused. Some days, I felt really inspired to be creative. Other days, I was just overwhelmed by the things I wanted to accomplish. But in less than an hour, with the guidance of the facilitator, I had consciously drawn everything in my brain and how they all intertwined.

I found out that my top 3 passions were yoga, surfing and traveling. And discovered that my other interests like food and love (family, friends, people) actually supported my passions. Because of this, I was able to redirect my energy and focus on them.




"May we always think positive thoughts, may we always speak kind words, and may we always have the courage to pursue our passions. Namaste."

Ever since my realizations, I've decided to continue on the path of yoga and take a 200 hour Yoga Teacher Training course under YogaWorks. I've been chosen by Lois as a contributor for WeAreSoleSisters.com, sharing some of my journeys, hoping to inspire women to travel more and explore further. Aside from that, she has also encouraged me to start this blog, WahineYoginiTravels.blogspot.com which may be known for my brain fart "Don't date a girl who travels".






My family's surf hut, which was born out of my love for the glassy waves of Baler has now flourished to become Secret Spot Baler, thanks to our wide network of surfers. And I'm actually proud to say that the next Passion Play Retreat is being held at our humble abode on September 28-29.

Waikiki, Hawaii

As an ocean lover, the magical islands of Hawaii has always been a dream destination. I slept through the 9 hour flight from Manila, and was gladly surprised to find out that one of the pilots, Anton was a friend of mine. He and his co-pilot Dan showed me around Central Waikiki on a pink trolley ($2 one way fare) and walked for miles along the shore. I was happy to see that longboards were the weapon of choice all along the blue coastline.

 

I met up with an old best friend, Pam who has been living in California for the past decade or so. She and her family were in the island for her sister's wedding. They welcomed me to their ultra luxe, enormous, top floor Hilton suite, with panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. Fit for a king, it was once occupied by no less than the king of pop himself, Michael Jackson. On lazy afternoons, we would catch up on gossip and each other's lives under coconut trees.




The green trolley line ($27 roundtrip fare) takes you all the way to Diamond Head and surrounding areas. I've heard that the hour long hike rewards you with breathtaking views of Oahu. It also stops at the Farmer's market during Saturdays, Kapiolani Park, Kahala Mall and King Kalakaua Plaza as well.




Two of my nieces, Sofia and Amihan live in Oahu. They, including their youngest sister Allie we all born and raised in the US and only visited Manila once when we were all so much younger. I was really looking forward to getting to know them well so I'm grateful that they instantly welcomed me to their cozy apartment and even let me use one of their cars! There are a lot of malls in Oahu, but one of their favorite places to shop is the Swap Meet where you will find locally made clothes, jewelry, souvenirs, and fresh produce. They've also taken me to their favorite restaurants like the Koa Pancake House, Pho 808, Zippy's and a dimsum place at Chinatown.


How to get here:
- Hawaiian Airlines ($735 roundtrip), unfortunately they have ceased operations in Manila recently
- Philippines Airlines flies Manila to Honolulu several times a week 

How to get around:
- The public buses (TheBus.org) is an inexpensive way to travel around Oahu
- Tourist trolleys (Waikikitrolley.org) have different routes that breezes through interesting spots
- Enoa Tours (enoa.com) takes you on longer guided tours around Oahu
- Car/motorcycle/bike rentals are also possible options if you have an international driver's license

Altinkum Boat Trips – A Lazy Day Cruising

Altinkum boat trips are the perfect way to change the mundane routine that has become my life. Routines are boring, pathetic and have no business trying to force their way into my day-to-day existence. However, unfortunately in the past months, an urge to save money for traveling had me chained to my computer in a boring repetitive action that has more or less destroyed any enthusiasm I had.

So when friends mentioned they were going on a lazy day boat trip in Altinkum, I decided that I had to be having some of that. It was the word “lazy” that appealed to me and since it had been a long time since I left dry land, I eagerly signed up with Altinkum Boat Trips on Facebook.

Every day until the day of boat trip came around, my friend called me eagerly to confirm that I was still going. Long-suffering hubby also had a rather surprised look on his face as well. Apparently everyone laughed at my sudden interest in boat trips and honestly thought that at the last minute I would feign a fake bout of illness or invent some huge disaster to get out of it.


Altinkum Boat Trips and Tours

I was determined to go but there was a slight problem. I live a 5 minute walk from Altinkum beach and also live on a complex with two swimming pools but on the day of the boat trip, I woke up and discovered that I had no swimming costume, no shorts, no hat, no sunglasses and no sun cream. Much needed items for a boat trip

Seriously, this is a major lack of preparation right? But women know how to improvise in times of trouble and the solution was to raid hubby’s wardrobe so off I trotted to the harbor dressed in his boxer shorts and clothes. The boxer shorts were to be my swimming costume for the day, but my concern was that I don’t have any body parts to fill the flabby bit on the front of the boxer shorts. Fears of the flabby bit filling up with water and acting as a life buoyancy aid were prominent in my mind.



When I arrived at Altinkum harbor, I made it clear that I did not want a party boat with drinking games and people puking overboard. My partying days are over and I needed to relax so I was assigned to the Siesta boat. A two deck boat, it is aimed especially at those who want to chill out and enjoy a lazy day cruising the coastline of the Aegean.



The gangplank leading into the sea meant there were no attempts by me to belly flop off the top deck into the crystal blue waters beneath. Toilets were spotlessly clean, there was a fully stocked bar with Efes beer and the music was played at a level where you can still hear yourself think. The perfect set up for relaxation in my eyes.




Watersports

We dropped anchor in a number of bays where Debra went off snorkeling, a couple of the other girls decided to take a ride in the speed boat and some other adventurous souls jumped on the banana boat. Me? I was laid out on the top deck taking in the rays and enjoying my lazy day boat cruise. I did go swimming once, but due to my fears of the boxer shorts inflating with sea water, I kept my outer shorts on.







The lazy day boat trip was everything it was meant to be. I de-stressed and relaxed and managed to pick up sizzling – lobster red tan marks. Will I be going again? Hell, yes of course I will. For 20 Turkish lira, (8 Uk Pounds) I got a full day out and managed to relax and banish mundane routine from my days.

Travel Scam Alert : Fake Antique Coins in Selcuk

Last month, on impulse, I stayed in the town of Selcuk, near the ruins of Ephesus. Due to my hasty decision, I did no research but despite my lack of planning, the trip was fantastic.

I made new Turkish friends, explored recommended attractions, ate good food, and drank lots of beer! However, I was seriously disappointed by a travel scam, targeting foreign tourists.

Infact, the same scam was tried on me, twice in two days!

The scam artists definitely have confidence but more alarming is the amount of money involved. They are not trying to rip people off for a few coins.

They are attempting to gain hundreds of Euros, Dollars, or Pounds.

So what exactly happened?
Travel Scam at Saint John’s Basilica and Temple of Artemis in Selcuk

My hotel receptionist said the castle of Selcuk was closed because of excavations. So I headed to Saint John’s Basilica instead. I strolled up to the main gate via a side path. A dubious looking man, was loitering but remained hidden out of sight, from staff. He was skinny, dressed in jeans and a T-shirt but looking casually smart. Despite his appearance, warning bells were ringing.

My camera was hanging around my neck and I thought he would attempt to steal it. Instead, using near perfect English, he asked if I wanted to see Selcuk castle.

“No one can see it, it is closed for excavations.” I replied

“I am staff working on the excavations; I will take you to the private entrance”



I wanted to see the castle, but did not want to be arrested for illegally entering historical sites so I started walking away and the man ran after me. He produced four coins from his pocket and with a straight face, started his sales banter.

“These coins are very old, from the Roman times. Because you are a pretty lady, I will sell you one coin for 100 euros. You can sell it for much more money when you go home”

The man seemed educated. He pointed to one coin and said it showed the Byzantine emperor Constantine. The problem with this information was that Constantine was notorious for insisting his statues and coin portraits were shown without a beard.

The man mentioned another emperor depicted on one of the other coins. I had never heard of him, but the portrait looked like Clark Kent, superman!

“They are very nice, I like them,” I said, “But you should not sell them as antiques, they are fake so you should call them souvenirs.”

The man expressed disgust at my accusation and then anger, because I had insulted his honour, by accusing him of lying. I started to walk away. He followed me and slowly the tone changed. He promised on his mother’s name that they were real. Apparently, he took them from the excavation site where he was employed.

“If this is true,” I said, “They belong to the government and I don’t want to buy stolen items.”

A heated discussion followed, along with claims that his mother was ill, father was dead, and he had hefty bills to pay. Slowly the price of the coins dropped bit by bit.
Remember: The price at the beginning was 100 euros for one coin

What was the final price?

6 euros for all four coins!



I paid for my souvenirs, made a mental note to research Trip Advisor, and then forgot about him. However, the next day, I walked to the other end of the town, to visit the temple of Artemis.

While taking photographs, a local man walked up and started talking to me. We exchanged pleasantries and then he produced three coins. The same sales patter started. He claimed to be a worker on the excavation sites and they were his property.

Later that day, I questioned some locals about this scam. One said, he had done the job for a week but could not lie with a straight face, so he made no money. His friend though, once sold a fake coin to an American for 500 USD!
The Law Regarding Antique and Artefacts in Turkey
Jobs on excavation sites throughout Turkey are hard to come by and not given out easily. Funding for these projects normally stems from universities, institutions or the government. They only allow qualified historians; people employed by the funding source or history students to work on uncovering the artefacts. Excavation workers on these sites do not have legal right to claim possession of anything they uncover, so even if they are real, you will be participating in theft.
A law in Turkey, states it is illegal to take any antiques or artefacts, over 100 years old, out of the country. To do so, needs a special certificate and license. Any antiques or artefacts found by the local public should be taken to the nearest museum.
Don’t think you can get away with it either. This Icelandic man was arrested in Antalya for buying antique stones from a local market.

Upon returning, I checked the Internet and this scam in Selcuk has been going around since 2007, although there seems to be many different versions, but the aim is to get lots of money out of unsuspecting tourists!

So if you are visiting Selcuk, please be aware. If your friends go there, please tell them about this scam. No-one deserves to be ripped off for hundreds of dollars, just because they have a passion for history.

Çöp Sis Kebabs : Are They Garbage?

When I first came to Turkey, one dish that I wholeheartedly indulged in was Shish kebabs. It was a safe choice. Large chunks of meat, with peppers and onions, were placed on a skewer and grilled. Simple and not too much of a culture shock for my palate that was so used to British food.


Later, while driving through the Aegean town of Soke, my friend recommended Çöp Sis kebab. Apparently, the town was famous for it and on the main D525 road, opposite the army base; we drove past a long line of ten or more restaurants, just serving çöp sis kebabs, and nothing else!



I was confused for two reasons.


1: Why do Turks insist on setting up shops and restaurants, next to numerous other places that sell exactly the same item? Many years later, I was informed that it is a throwback tradition to the Ottoman days. It makes it easier for the shopper. Ok, that makes sense but not for the owner of the business!


2: The second question, was that the Turkish word çöp translated, meant garbage! Therefore, would I be indulging in a garbage kebab?


No, my fear was ungrounded. It was explained that çöp sis kebabs, are the smaller, scrap ends of the meat and also a little bit of fat. There is nothing wrong with them. They just do not fit the typical size required for a Shish kebab.



The Çöp Sis Restaurants of Soke


That was approximately 12 years ago, and repeatedly, I return to those çöp sis restaurants to indulge in one of my favourite Turkish dishes. The small size of them is ample enough for an appetizer or if you can eat loads, order them as a main course. They are mostly accompanied with salad and thin dough bread though, so is it better to order as you eat.





I am slowly trying out each restaurant in an attempt to discover which one is the best. However from time to time, they change chefs and owners, so I have to start again. What an ordeal!


Recommendation: Ilhan Usta Çöp Sis restaurant seems to be popular with locals of Soke. I tried it out and the food was delicious, service was impeccable and the prices were ridiculously cheap.
He also lets you take charge of the grill if you ask politely!





(Readers Note : The spelling of “sis” using the Turkish language is not correct but unfortunately, there is a technical glitch and I can not type some of the Turkish characters in their alphabet)

5 Things to Do in Yalikavak : From An Insider

Having travelled to Yalikavak many times, it is now, my favourite holiday destination in Turkey. With much to admire, this beautiful seaside resort, is popular with foreign and Turkish tourists. There are five reasons in particular why I keep going back, and this article also serves as a good guide for first time visitors to the resort.
Guide on Things to do in Yalikavak
Sandy Beaches

Yalikavak’s beaches are just a narrow strip of sand but they are great places to hang out, in the day or in the evening. The main stretch of beach runs from the centre of the village down to the old fishing port.

Free sun loungers belong to bars and restaurants situated on the promenade, and you can sit there for as long as you like, providing you buy refreshments or food. Most bars also have good WiFi connections, so you can lie on your lounger and surf the Internet.

Jetties and floating platforms, lead way into the shallow water and the beach is never crowded, even in summer, making it a great destination for family beach holidays. Stay there until “the golden hour” and you are in for an extra treat. This area is renowned for vibrant sunsets, so wait until the sun drops down behind the horizon, for the perfect photo opportunity.



I have been known to arrive at the beach at 11am and leave at 1am after enjoying a full day of sunbathing, dinner on the beach and drinks! The chilled out atmosphere in Yalikavak means no one will bat an eyelid if you haven’t dressed for dinner.

I can recommend Sofis Bar and Restaurant for an all-day beach and bar experience. Their Turkish nights that take place every Thursday night in summer are also great fun. More beach clubs are opening up on the other side of Yalikavak Bay, in places like Xuma Beach and Magi Beach, but you will have to pay for sunbeds here.


Bustling Market Life

Yalikavak Market attracts visitors from all along the Bodrum Peninsula, who seek out bargains for clothing, leather goods, electrical items, jewellery and fabrics. It is also a fantastic place to buy fresh food produce if you are staying in a self-catering property. The fruit and veg looks so appetising and you can buy it for a fraction of the price you will pay in the supermarkets.

Nuts and grains are also available in abundance and they are the Turks favourite snack. Alternatively, for something sweeter and also a great souvenir for family and friends, opt for traditional Turkish delight. Most traders are happy to give you a sample to try before you buy.

Many stall traders, still use selling techniques dating from the Ottoman era. They are not reserved like shop owners, in the Western world, so if you stop to browse, expect some sales banter with it. It is all part of the fun, of shopping like a Turk, however tone up your haggling skills before you go, so you grab a bargain in the process.

The market is held every Thursday on the market square, at the top of town, near the bus station. Get there as early as possible because it does get busy and very hot around mid-day.


Cruising the Coastline on Daily Boat Trips

Every day, boat trips leave from Yalikavak old harbour and normally, friends and I, opt for the shared boat trips with other people because this works out cheaper but I think, an amazing experience is hiring a private boat. Last summer, a day’s rental cost 550TL for five people. That works out at just £30 per person at the current exchange rate.

The boat trips either head off to Rabbit Island and Gumusluk, or go east, around the headland to quiet bays, that are ideal for snorkelling and fishing. Food served on-board is always plentiful and delicious. You can also buy soft or alcoholic drinks, and there is lots of room to spread out, soak up the sun and take in some amazing views.

The Aegean Sea is hard to beat for the shades of turquoise water and seeing it does make you appreciate how stunning the coastline is.

I enjoy boat trips but you should avoid them, if you have young children. There is little escape from the sun and even in the shaded areas, it gets hot. It’s great for tanning but make sure you reapply sun cream regularly. Even locals have returned to harbour, sunburnt after a boat trip out at sea!


The State of the Art Palmarina

As an avid fan of Yalikavak and its traditional charm, I was concerned when plans were released for a new marina. The multi-billion pound state of the art marina did not seem to fit in with the quaint appeal of the village, its cobbled streets, and old fishing harbour. However, last September I saw the marina for myself and was pleasantly surprised.

Built away from the old town, it did not affect the picture postcard appearance of Yalikavak and holidaymakers now have more choices of places to eat and drink; children’s play areas; designer shops; art galleries; and exclusive nightclubs.

Quite honestly, I cannot afford to use many of these new establishments but looking at the huge super yachts moored in the marina, there are plenty of people who can.

Even more exciting are the plans for high-speed ferries to leave from the resort for daily trips to the Greek Islands.


Seaside Restaurants

Considering Yalikavak started life as a small fishing village, the range of international cuisine offered by restaurants is astonishing. Unsurprisingly the seafood is appetizing and the restaurants that line the old harbour, display fresh caught fish in glass cabinets so you can choose your own fish by weight and then have it grilled.

The traditional Turkish restaurants also fill their large glass-fronted counters with mouth-watering mezes (appetizers). Try Acili Ezme, a spicy tomato dip that is perfectly accompanied with freshly baked flatbreads. If Turkish cuisine is not ideal for your palate, everything else is available from the pizza restaurants, as well as Indian and steak houses.



Yalikavak’s restaurants also have the added benefit of surreal surroundings, which make the summer evenings special. Many restaurants line the beach and they place tables on the sand or decking so you can enjoy a quiet meal with the sea lapping, a few metres away.

To mingle with the locals, head uphill through the village to the area surrounding the Mosque. Here you can dine informally (and cheaply) in Turkish style restaurants called lokantas. Teashops also host locals playing animated games of dominoes or cards, and it makes for interesting people watching!



This article is by Jessica Whittle, an avid traveller who has been all around the world. She has more regional hints and tips to share with readers but recommends visiting the coastal resort to see the delights for yourself. Her suggestion for overnight accommodation is Panoramic Villas, who have a great choice of holiday villas and apartments around the world. View their Yalikavak Villas here.

Sevgi Plaji – The Beach of Love and Hate

Turks have a habit of naming places, with a direct translation that means something. For example, the bustling holiday resort of “Marmaris” means “hang the architect” in reference to an Ottoman sultan, Suleyman the magnificent who in 1522, ordered a new fortress to be built and was totally disgusted at the finished result.


Likewise, Altinkum means “golden sands” referring to the many miles of sandy beaches on the coastline. Not sure, where the golden comes into it, but I assume the name was given many years before dogs started shitting on the beaches and tourists used it as one gigantic ashtray!


Anyway, I digress. On the Aegean coastline, there is a rather stunning beach called Sevgi plaji, in the Davutlar area. It is popular with local Turks from neighbouring Kusadasi and Soke. The name translates to “love beach” and there is no denying, that it is beautiful, therefore ideal for two lovers to take a romantic walk, while declaring nauseating and undying love to each other.


I visited Sevgi Plaji for the first time last year, and it holds strong memories for me but not for the reasons you might think.


For me, Sevgi Plaji was the place when I truly realized that my seven year marriage was over.
Visiting Sevgi Plaji





That day, my ex-husband suggested we venture out and about. It was a wonderful idea. He had been working away for two years and during that time, something had changed. In what way, I was not sure, but I felt distance and unease with the man who had returned to share my bed every night.


Feeling extremely happy, because I thought a romantic day would rekindle the passion in our marriage, I then felt like someone had pushed me off a cliff. The ex was on the phone to his family. They were going to join us and we would head to Sevgi Plaji.


Now at this point, you should know that I was already in the bad books with his family because when my husband had announced his intention to work away, it was suggested that I live with his family in the nearby town of Soke.


Apparently I could learn how to cook dolma, clean like a Turkish woman, be persuaded to have many babies and in the process, totally destroy the shred of any social life that I had left.


I politely declined and instead toured the Southwest coast of Turkey, messed around on boats, watched the horse races in Izmir and went hiking in the Kackar mountains. According to Turkish society, this is disappointing behaviour for a married woman.


Anyway, my refusal to become a domestic goddess, had always led my Turkish family to think I was stupid. At family gatherings, I was not even allowed to make the salad and I am quite sure that any offer to boil the eggs for breakfast, would have resulted in a fainting fit that needed hospitalization.


Now a person can only put up with being treated like the village idiot for so long. Eventually they start to distance themselves from “said” people. Hence, in the two years that my husband was working away, I conveniently forgot to visit my mother-in-law. Time passes by quickly, what more can I say?


So despite knowing that my Turkish family, hated my guts, I hitched along and we arrived at Sevgi plaj.


We proceeded to empty the boot of what seemed like the entire contents of a kitchen. Then we found a small clearing in among trees, laid out the blanket and struck up a BBQ.





Now, where I come from, sparking up a BBQ next to trees and on grass is dangerous. I questioned this, and the response was raised eyebrows, sarcastic comments and lots of giggles. I shut my mouth, looked around for possible fire escape routes, and asked if I could help cut the tomatoes. “No” was the reply.


Maybe they had great concerns about putting a sharp object in my hand


As we sat there eating BBQ chicken wings, peppers, onions and tomatoes, my brother in law remarked on my weight gain and said I was fat. Turks have no qualms about doing that. I however object, when the person saying it is a fat fucker themselves!


Had my brother-in-law been English, a rebuttal would have been easy but this is Turkey, so I duly shut my mouth and carried on eating.


As I sat there, tears started to well up and the realization hit me. I was in the wrong place with the wrong people. I was fed up of trying and drained of energy. I was fed up, that in the eyes of my Turkish husband; I would always come second to his family.


I hid my tears and never mentioned a word, but two days later, I threw my ex-husband out, while screaming degrading profanities about his manhood so all the neighbours can hear. After 13 years in the country, I knew the perfect way to hurt a Turkish man was to attack his pride and I strongly wanted retribution.


I am not entirely sure why, because on that day, it also felt like the shackles that were holding me down had finally been unlocked.


I think my visit to the beach with my ex and his family was meant to happen. It was the universe’s way of saying “Enough girl, you have strayed off your path too far”. In other ways, it is ironic that a defining moment of my life happened on the “Love beach”, but maybe the universe was just feeling bitchy that day.


Will I return to Love beach?


Probably, but not in the foreseeable future. While the emotional wounds are healing, the memories are still too raw.


Question for Readers: Is there is a place that you associate with good or bad memories?